Inglis dryer won't start

A dryer that won't start either has no power, does not see the door as closed, or has a broken circuit to the motor. Check the breaker and outlet, close the door firmly and press and hold Start; if it still does nothing, the door switch, drive belt, thermal fuse, motor and controls are checked in that order.

Quick checks first

• Check the breaker or fuses; an electric dryer uses a double breaker, a gas dryer a standard outlet.
• Close the door firmly and press and hold Start for a couple of seconds.
• Look for a control lock icon and turn it off as the owner's manual describes.
• Heat-pump dryers: make sure the lint filters are fully seated; many will not start without them.
• Unplug the dryer for one minute, or switch the breaker off and on, to reset the control.

Power to the dryer Owner check

With a dark display the documentation starts at the outlet, breaker, fuses and junction box, then the power cord connection at the dryer. A loose terminal at the cord block can cause intermittent starts and is a fire risk, so if you see scorch marks or smell burning near the back of the dryer, stop using it. Checking supply connections behind the terminal cover is service work.

Door closed and Start held Owner check

The control will not run the motor unless the door switch reports closed. A door that does not latch fully, a worn latch or a strike that misses the switch prevents starting. Many models also require Start to be pressed and held. Control lock, often enabled by holding a key named in the manual, makes the keys appear dead. These are the first items in the documentation.

Lint filters (heat-pump models) Owner check

Applies to: Heat-pump dryer

Heat-pump dryers have a door filter and a lower filter in front of the heat exchanger. The documentation lists missing or misplaced filters as a reason the dryer will not start, with a filter indicator or an LF message on the display. Reseating both filters until they click or sit flush often clears it.

Door switch Technician

If the door is closed and the dryer still will not start, the door switch is the next documented check. A switch that has failed open makes the control think the door is open; on many models the drum light also behaves oddly. A technician tests the switch and its connections.

Drive belt, thermal fuse and motor Technician

The motor circuit includes protective parts. On gas models with a belt switch, a broken belt stops the motor from starting. On electric models the thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor, so an open fuse leaves the dryer lit up but unable to start. A motor that hums without turning, or that starts only with a push, has its own faults. The documentation tests the motor circuit as a unit; a thermal fuse that opened is also a sign to check the vent.

Keypad and main control Technician

The last documented checks are the keypad or display board and the main control, including the connection between them. If buttons beep but nothing runs, or the display shows a communication code, these boards are investigated after the door switch and motor circuit have been ruled out.

What the service documentation checks on Inglis platforms

For this symptom, the manufacturer's troubleshooting tables list causes in a specific order. Here is that order, in our words, for the Inglis platforms with the most models:

Error codes linked to this problem

If your Inglis dryer shows one of these codes, start with its page:

• F1E1

Repair cost

Typical total ranges for the Las Vegas area, parts and labor included. The final cost depends on diagnosis, the exact model, parts availability and whether other damage is found.

When to call for diagnosis

Call for service if the dryer has power and the door is latched but it still will not run, if the motor only hums, or if you see scorching or smell burning near the power connection.

Model-specific information

Causes and codes differ by platform. Look up your model for its exact fault-code list, or start from a popular model:

• YIED5900HW
• YIED7300WW
• IGD7300WW