Whirlpool dryer not heating

A dryer that tumbles but stays cold has lost one link in its heat circuit. On an electric dryer, check first that both halves of the 240-volt breaker are on; on a gas dryer, that the gas supply is on. After that, the service documentation checks the safety fuses and cutoffs, the heating element or gas burner parts, and the control, which requires professional testing.

Quick checks first

• Electric dryer: switch the dryer's double breaker fully off and back on. If one half tripped, the drum can turn with no heat.
• Gas dryer: confirm the gas shutoff handle behind the dryer is in line with the pipe and that other gas appliances work.
• Clean the lint screen and make sure the outside vent hood flap opens when the dryer runs.
• Select a heated cycle, not Air Fluff or Air Only, and a temperature other than the lowest setting.
• Gas dryer: if you smell gas, do not operate any switches or the dryer. Leave the house and call the gas utility from outside.

Supply first: breaker or gas Owner check

Applies to: Electric dryer, Gas dryer

The documentation starts with installation and supply. An electric dryer needs both legs of a 240-volt supply: the motor runs on one leg, while the element needs both. If one breaker half trips or a fuse blows, the drum turns but there is no heat, and some models show a line-voltage code. A gas dryer needs the gas supply on; after moving the dryer or other gas work, the shutoff may have been left closed. Checking the breaker and the shutoff handle is owner work; measuring the supply is not.

Lint screen and vent Owner check

Applies to: Electric dryer, Gas dryer

Restricted airflow does not always stop heat outright, but it trips the safety devices that do. When hot air cannot leave, the exhaust temperature climbs, and thermal cutoffs or fuses open; some of these do not reset and leave the dryer permanently cold until replaced. Clean the lint screen each load and check that the outside vent hood flap opens and is not clogged. Lint and vent restriction is a fire-safety matter, not only a drying-time problem. Cleaning the full duct run is a service job.

Thermal cutoff, high limit and thermal fuse Technician

Applies to: Electric dryer, Gas dryer

These safety devices sit in the heat path. The service documentation says that when the thermal cutoff is found open, both it and the high-limit thermostat are replaced, and the exhaust system is checked for blockage, because an open cutoff means the dryer overheated. On gas dryers the thermal fuse is wired in series with the gas valve, so an open fuse means no heat. On electric dryers the same fuse is in series with the motor, so the drum will not turn at all. Replacing a fuse without fixing the cause leads to repeat failures.

Heating element (electric) Professional only

Applies to: Electric dryer

An electric dryer's element is a coil of resistance wire in a heater box. When the coil breaks, the circuit opens and there is no heat at all; a coil that has sagged and touched the housing can instead cause heat that will not shut off. The documentation tests the heat system in a set order, element and wiring before the control. These tests involve 240-volt circuits and require professional testing.

Gas burner: igniter, valve coils and flame sensor Professional only

Applies to: Gas dryer

A gas dryer lights its burner with a hot-surface igniter. The gas valve opens only when the igniter is hot and the flame sensor reports correctly. The documentation checks the valve coils, the igniter and the flame sensor as one group. Symptoms help: an igniter that glows but never lights the gas, or a flame that lights and then goes out after a short time, points to different parts. All gas burner work requires professional testing because it involves the gas supply and line voltage.

Motor switch, sensors and control Professional only

The motor has a centrifugal switch that allows heat only when the drum is turning, and the documentation suspects it before the control when the other checks pass. The control reads the exhaust and inlet thermistors and switches the heater relay; a faulty thermistor reading or relay can stop heat. Heat-pump dryers heat with a refrigerant system and dry at lower temperatures, so their heat-related checks are different and need a technician familiar with them.

What the service documentation checks on Whirlpool platforms

For this symptom, the manufacturer's troubleshooting tables list causes in a specific order. Here is that order, in our words, for the Whirlpool platforms with the most models:

Error codes linked to this problem

If your Whirlpool dryer shows one of these codes, start with its page:

• F1E1
• F1E1-1
• F3E1
• F3E2
• F3E3
• F3E4
• F3E5
• F4E1
• F4E2
• F4E4
• F20
• F22
• F23
• F24
• F25
• L2

Repair cost

Typical total ranges for the Las Vegas area, parts and labor included. The final cost depends on diagnosis, the exact model, parts availability and whether other damage is found.

When to call for diagnosis

Call for service if the breaker and gas supply are fine and the vent is clear but the dryer still blows cold air. Gas burner and 240-volt heat circuit testing must be done by a professional.

Model-specific information

Causes and codes differ by platform. Look up your model for its exact fault-code list, or start from a popular model:

• WED500CMW
• WED500RLW
• WED500RMW
• WED5010LW
• WED5050LW
• WED6150PB
• WED6150PW
• WGD500CMW
• WGD500RLW
• WGD5050LW
• WGD6150PB
• WGD6150PW